Monday, June 1, 2009
My Last Night in Kiganza Village
We all sat around outside for a while after everyone had finished their drinks. The kids had such a sugar high going that they could barely contain their excitement. I was able to film a few other clips but this is the only one that I have on hand right now. The clip is kind of dark and it's hard to make out their faces, but they all crowded around and started counting for me and got a kick out of it when I played it back to them. Usually the sight of a camera instills fear but not when you have 20 ounces of soda running through your veins.
misc pictures
Collecting Honey
About a year ago, some 30-odd beehives were placed all around GOSESO’s forest. On a recent walk, Ashahadu, the head of our forest conservation efforts and resident jack of all trades noticed that a bunch of the hives had been colonized and looked ready for harvesting, and thus a date was set for the next night and a crew was assembled to gather the first batch of goseso honey.
The Crew:
Kamata and Hamza: The front line technicians. They did all the work. They smoked the hives, cut out the honeycomb, cleaned it off, and tossed in the bucket, and then replaced the hive (hives are hung from trees, to avoid animals/bugs from messing things up). At one point Kamata was 15 feet up in a tree, sitting on a hive like it was a saddle, pulling out honeycomb with one hand and swatting bees with the other. It was quite a sight. Both Kamata and Hamza were stung dozens of times, and they had the swollen hands to prove it, though neither seemed to concerned about their wounds.
Salvatory: Meek, hard-working GOSESO employee. He works with Ashahadu in our forest conservation program, planting indigenous trees, setting up nurseries, etc. He was dragged along to be a porter of sorts, to haul the bucket of honeycomb from one hive to the next. He was an interesting choice as a helper, giving that he is absolutely terrified of bees. He tended to hide in grass/behind a tree a good 20-30 feet from the hives, constantly double checking that his pants were tucked into his socks and that his two coats were properly sealed off. Obviously, Salvatory’s phobia provided endless amusement throughout the night.
Ashahadu: The brains of the operation. He knew the methods, he knew which hives were ready, and he could lead us to them in the dark. And as proof that he was the brains, he shouted instructions to Kamata and Hamza from a safe distance throughout the night, lead the way in laughing at their misfortunes, and was not stung once.
Drew: The useless foreign observer. Though I was dead weight, I like to think I provided emotional support. My credibility was somewhat improved by getting stung 4 times in efforts to get a better view of the action. While nothing near to battle scars of Kamata and Hamza, it was at least enough to gain me entrance into the club and be one of the guys. Additionally, my running commentary on “this isn’t how they do it in America” added a nice cross-cultural flavor to the outing.
The Harvest:
I knew I was in for an adventure when it became clear that an acceptable form of gauging a hives vitality was to throw rocks at it. Hamza used this highly refined technique to verify Ashahadu’s claims, and his frantic, laughter-filled retreats from the hives did so convincingly. The actual extraction of honey is done by the same basic process that exists everywhere; bundles of lighted-grass are used to somewhat pacify the bees, the end of the beehive is pried off, and a brave person, Hamza or Kamata, saws off the honeycomb with a kitchen knife we borrowed from Alexi, the cook. The honeycomb is then swatted with a leafy branch, to remove any lingering bees, and then tossed in the collection bucket.
While the process was interesting, and the product is obviously delicious, the best part of the experience was the unique “vibe” of the night; it felt exactly like I was a teenager again, and my friends and I were bored and finding novel ways to pointlessly hurt ourselves, and finding our own and especially others pain hilarious. Kamata and Hamza were a constant soundtrack of shrieks, moans, and Mungu yangu’s (my God), always capped off by their own laughter. The rest of us were pretty much continuously laughing at their misfortunes and at their especially creative yells or swears.
After a hive had been cleared out, we would all gather around the honey-bucket and sample the harvest. I expect it was this light at the end of the stinger filled tunnel that allowed such a good-humored response to so many bee stings, and gave the night its festive atmosphere.
I don’t mean to get overly introspective or dramatic, but digging into the fresh honeycomb was one of those moments that I know I will remember fondly for long time. We all stood around the bucket, stuffing our mouths with big chunks of warm, dripping honeycomb, enjoying its raw, “complex” flavor (it really did have a lot of unidentified flavors in it, which leads one to wonder exactly what was them, especially since they were gone after cooking and filtering the honey the next day) and still laughing at the recent stings. To top it all off, the smoke in the air provided that wonderful “camping” smell to everything (I realize this only applied to me, as open fires were an everyday event for everyone else). The ironic thing is, after gorging of honey after visiting 8 separate hives, spread over 4 hours, by the end of the night the last thing you want to see, smell or taste is honey. Fortunately, the next day it’s as appealing as ever.
p.s. I apologize for not getting any good pictures; we were worried that the flash might anger the bees, so I left my camera at home. Next time (Ashahadu says August is the best month) I will take pictures. All i have is a picture of one of our "native" bee hives, and a picture of Ashahadu and Salvatory sorting through the wax and honey.Saturday, May 9, 2009
Not Just Child's Play
Thursday, April 23, 2009
We have been pretty bad bloggers recently. Things have been pretty busy around here, and i guess all the work cut into our blogging time. But I promise to try harder from now on.
Here are a few pictures i took of the neighborhood boys, playing with discarded junk. They were having a ball, pulling each other all over the place on a broken plastic container and some metal-thing. I don't think any real toys could have made them any happier than they were with these improvised ones. Although i guess playing with scrap metal does have its downside (no one was hurt while i was watching, at least).
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Prof. Paturzo's visit to Kiganza Village
COFFEE!
One day Drew was walking through a nearby village and smelled the sweet aroma of freshly roasted coffee. He followed the smell for a while and came upon this man (pictured above) happily roasting coffee in an earthen cooking pot. Although you are unable to see it, I assure you he is smiling. Drew was able to purchase enough for us to try it out. It was amazing! Over the previous months we had gotten used to drinking Africafe, a powder "substitute" for coffee. The only way it resembled coffee was in the color it made when you dissolved it in hot water. Needless to say this was a step up.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
A Stark Realization
swahili is elephant meat
Monday, February 23, 2009
just another picture of some of our best buddies
we know its wrong to pick favorites, but Said, 5th from the right and holding a baby, is our favorite. He is always helping out around his house (usually carrying a bucket of water back from the spring, on his head of course), he's a fearless soccer player, there is always a smile on his face, and he's so gentle and caring with little kids, as seen in this picture. I hope my mom doesn't come visit, because i have no doubt that she would kidnap him and cause a scene.
There's only one thing to do after a massive rainstorm...
this is how we roll
1) It's a brand new $40,000 land cruiser/land rover owned by the UN, one of the countless christian ministries, or some international charity.
2) It's a beaten up frankenstein of a machine where the only remaining original part is the seat belt, and that's just because it's never been used.
We here at GOSESO are proud to belong to the latter group. As long as our toyota hiace can get us from a to b, we'll use the money where its really needed.
(This picture was taken after a rainstorm, and thus it is a bit misleading. Seen any other day, you would swear our car was painted brown.)
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
our house
Saturday, February 14, 2009
forest economics
"The economy of the forest is marvelous to contemplate. Its raw material is the same thin soil that supports a meager cassava crop in the crowded valleys beyond the park. Its income is the same sunlight and rainfall. But a forest is an investment, the sun and rain and wind of many seasons stored as roots and trunks and branches. Everything that the forest produces – The leaves and fruit that fall, the rotting branch, the bones of the colobus, the dung of the chimp, the wing of the butterfly – everything is returned to the soil and invested once more in the forest."
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Saidi, head ranger
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Dirty water, and the solution
here is our solution. we commissioned a new rain-gutter system for the house. we bargained the price from $13 down to $8, labor and parts included. why use a ladder if you can stack a stool on top of a table on top of another table? eh, at least the stool is on top...
roughing it
On top of this, our electricity (which was minimal to begin with, our 1.5 solar panels generally only provided us with enough power to half-charge a laptop per day, or give 2 hours of light.) is out for the foreseeable future, as our driver, lawi, put his phone charger in backwards and blew something in the inverter out. all we gathered from his recounting was that there was lots of smoke.
This is not to say that we are suffering much. the bucket showers aren't too bad, and it gives us an excuse to go a good three days without really needing a shower. Plus, the lack of electricity does wonders to simplifying ones life; when its dark, we go to bed, when its light, we wake up. tho i am sure our tune will change after a few more weeks of this...
Friends!
Friday, February 6, 2009
misc.
this is a picture taken on the ride back from Gombe N.P. we're on local ferry, the one that stops at all the isolated fishing villages along lake tangynika to pick up fish and drop off supplies. It's about a 3 hour boat ride from Gombe to Kigoma, and it's actually fairly enjoyable.
This is a picture of the single happiest girl in the world. Her father, the man on the left, is one of the rangers of the Kitobe Forest/GOSESO campus. we ran into them as they were on an evening stroll to the market. When she saw us, she started giggling, and when i started holding her hand and lifting her over puddles in the road, she laughed uncontrollably. Often, when you catch a 2-3 year old kid by surprise, their initial reaction is one of absolute terror; the mere sight of two hairy white kids causes them to cry at the top of their lungs. It was nice to bring out the other extreme for once.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Random Pics
This is a shot of their front porch. Dar tends to get pretty hot during the day and it was so nice to be able to sit out on the porch and feel the breeze that comes off the Indian Ocean. That one's for you Kristina.
Visitors!
We recently had our first visitors, Isaac and Vanessa, from Providence and Boston! They were only here for about 48 hours, but we got a ton of stuff done. We took the 5 hour hike to Gombe Stream National Park (a thunderstorm caught up with us and passed us by, explaining the degree of wetness in the picture. we aren't in that bad of shape.), swam/soaked in lake Tanganyika while watching the sun set over the Congo mountains, we took the 3 hour "locals" boat back to kigoma, we saw the Stanley Livingstone monument/museum (where "Dr. Livingstone, i presume" happened), we toured GOSESO and one of our nursery projects at a primary school, i got a little food poisoning, Vanessa got a little freaked out with all the talk of malaria/snakes/water contamination, Isaac may have lost the greatest flashlight ever (The Eyeblaster), and Matt was the rock of stability. All said, they were absolute troopers, we had a blast sharing our strange little world with them for a few days. I had a bunch more pictures to post, but i forgot to put them on my flash drive, so one is all you get. (Also featured in the picture is Luca, our main guide/translator/electrician/jack-of-all-trades, and Ashahadu, the tree-master and manager of our community outreach.)
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Burundi Border
The other week yared, matt and i drove the 50 kilometers up to the burundi border. The region in between our village and the border is prime coffee growing real estate, and we were going to view some successful farms and begin developing relationships for future goseso endeavors (we eventually hope to set up satellite village outreach programs, and help set up co-ops/etc. to help independent coffee farmers). It was mountain-y and misty and green, and a fun trip for a few hours. Then came the rain. and the dirt roads became the mud roads. long story short, we ended up getting stuck in ditches/puddles/etc. over a dozen times, and at one point matt and i just walked behind the car for two miles or so, because we were getting stuck every 20 yards or so and getting in and out was annoying. in the end it actually was a pretty fun day, as frustration gradually turned to some sick form of humorous acceptance and even enjoyment. anyway, the first picture is of matt wiping his nose while standing on the boarder, and the second one of matt and the car (which really has no right going off road in perfect conditions) at the end of the day.
Friday, January 23, 2009
and more pics...
Thursday, January 22, 2009
more pics
This is matt, excited to eat our christmas dinner feast. (don't worry visitors, we have an expanded menu for you foreigners.)
This is us on our way to vuvumwa, the local swimming hole. We generally spend our recreation time with a gang of 5-10 12 year olds. They speak a more simple swahili, they love to swim and play soccer, and they are easily impressed. We feel we have recaptured part of our youth.
This is the Mgalaganza chapter of our primary school nursery project. In this picture they are being instructed while in their nursery by Ashahadu (blue shirt), our reforestation expert and manager of community outreach. Ashahadu is a good guy to know, he has several beehives around his home and supplies us with a steady flow of honey.
Pictures
this is where we check our internet when we're in the village. The plan is to build a half dozen of theses, furnish them, throw on some screens, and use them as visitor housing.
This is matt preparing to wow the locals with his acrobatic abilities. they enjoyed it, i was not impressed.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Obama's Inauguration, on Al Jazeera
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Our work
The topic of today is GOSESO Community Outreach- Tree Nurseries in Local Primary Schools. A few days ago, i was able to visit Mgalaganza Primary School to observe a GOSESO funded nursery run by the students. It was really fun to see how into it the students were; i believe this will be a community outreach program for years to come. anyway, here are the specifics of the program:
The Goal: To teach local primary school students (grades k-6) about the importance of protecting their local environment, how to care for trees, and to introduce them to indigenous trees that have been almost entirely removed from the landscape.
The Process: At selected primary schools, we establish a chapter of the GOSESO Club. This club consists of one faculty member, and 20 students, boys and girls, representing each grade. Entry into this club is seen as a bit of a reward, so these twenty students are the brightest and most responsible of the student body. Then, GOSESO's community outreach team builds a small nursery (a 4 foot tall fence protecting a 10 meter x 10 meter plot of cleared land) and leaves about 2,000 potted seeds with the club. Over the next few months, the seeds germinate, become seedlings, and are eventually planted around the campus. Each member of the club is also allowed to choose three seedlings to bring home and plant around their house. once or twice a month, the community outreach team comes to check progress, address any needs, and give a relevant lesson to the club on the importance of indigenous trees/dangers of deforestation/science behind germination/etc.
Progress/Status: So far, we have three nursery programs up and running; one at Mgalaganza primary school, one at Bitale secondary school, and one at Nyampemba primary school. We have identified 7 more local schools where we hope to establish new chapters soon. Through the first few months of this program, we have determined that primary school students are much more responsive. They keep their nursery in impeccable shape, and seem to take lots of pride in the health of their trees. Although the program has been fairly well received at Bitale Secondary School, it is clear that the older students (middle and high school age) are much less careful with the seedlings, and less engaged in general. Therefore, expansion of this particular program is planned for primary schools only.
Future: In addition to adding 7 new chapters, we have a few exciting new ideas which will improve this program. First of all, once GOSESO begins classes, we will assign pairs of GOSESO students to each school, and they will be responsible for planning and deliver lessons on environmental science/etc. twice a month to their GOSESO club. Also, as a reward for a job well done, each club will have an annual field trip to Gombe Stream National Park to see the chimpanzee's, and to observe the natural forest, the rare example of the natural state of their land. Although the park is only a few miles from most of these schools, most local people never visit it. Going to Gombe would be an enormous deal to these students. GOSESO would obviously be covering the students entrance fees, but the children would earn their keep by helping collect seeds from the indigenous trees of Gombe to bring back to GOSESO, in doing so renewing the reforestation cycle.
What GOSESO Needs: Each chapter of this nursery program costs $100 per year. This price includes construction and maintenance of the nursery, 2000 seedlings, two watering cans, a rake, several hoes, a record book for the school, entrance fees for Gombe ($1.50 per child), and food and transportation for the trip. In return for a donation, we will send pictures and status reports on your chapter, and thank you notes from each of the students. This is a very efficient program, where lots is accomplished for relatively little money; $100 plants 2000 indigenous trees throughout the region, educates and empowers 20 young students, provides them with an otherwise impossible trip to a internationally known park, and gives GOSESO students an opportunity to share the knowledge they are receiving and grow comfortable with their role as leaders in their communities. At this point, the only limitation to this programs success is funding, so obviously any donations would be much appreciated. Donation info can be found at www.goseso.org (its tax deductible!).
Well, that was program number one, more to come as we experience them.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Matt survived an african public hospital
Friday, January 9, 2009
Matt's Malaria
Anyway, apparently matt got bit by a malaria-mosquito a week or so ago. Two days ago he got feverish and ache-y all over, so last night we visited the regional hospital to figure out what was wrong. Everyone kept saying it must be malaria, but matt and i doubted this as we have been sleeping under mosquitto nets, using repellant, and taking Malarone every night with dinner. But i guess matt is just lucky. I keep assuring him that in a few years, this will be a pretty cool story, and a real sign of him having an authentic african experience, but he's a little to cranky to see my point. It's too bad we cant upload photos, because i have a few good ones of him puking, then of him realizing i was taking pictures of him, then of him giving me the middle finger; My photography tells stories.
The good news is that a room just opened up and we were the first to grab it, so matt is without a roommate for tonight. Last night was spent with a man with very severe malaria of the brain, who yelled/groaned random (or so we were told) swahili every thirty seconds. Every hour or so he was helped by his brothers to use his bed pan in the middle of the room, narrating every move with his signature random grunts. It was not a restful night. But tonight looks better. In addition to this fortunate relocation, matts headache is gone, he has been able to eat and hold down some food, and even walk around the hospital campus a bit. We are assured that he should be out of here pretty soon. I will update any developements.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
we're bad bloggers
We have been in Kiganza, the village of GOSESO, for a few weeks now. They have been fairly intense weeks for us, getting used to life here, but in reality not much has gone on. We have done a fair amount of hiking, we've studied swahili, we have met most of the neighbors and employees of GOSESO, and Matt has contracted malaria. So really, nothing to report. MORE TO COME!